Tea Column

The Ways of Tea
By Tricia Vita

The rakuware bowl named “Wabi” resides in my china cabinet along with its companion, a whisk crafted from a single piece of bamboo.  The kettle is not yet whistling when I place these Japanese utensils on the countertop in the tiny kitchen of my Manhattan apartment.  My recipe for tranquility in the busy city:  a quarter teaspoon of powdered green tea, add hot (not boiling) water, blend with whisk, add more water, whip to a delicious froth.

A verse from the T’ang dynasty comes to mind as I take my first sip: “Where do you live?  In the green mountains by the pure water.”  I am both host and guest in my own private tea ceremony.  This calming and restorative ritual takes its cue from the Japanese “cha-no-yu” or way of tea. 

The thick tea powder known as “matcha” is made from the youngest leaves of the tea growers’ oldest shrubs. My supply of this elixir comes from the Uji hills near Kyoto, where the priest Eisai planted the tea seeds he brought back from China more than a thousand years ago.  “In this degenerate age, tea is the most wonderful medicine for nourishing one’s health and prolonging life,” wrote Eisai in a book that he gave to the ailing shogun along with a sample of powdered tea.

I became a tea devotee during a 3-1/2 year sojourn in Kyoto, where I had the unique experience of living in rooms originally designed for the tea ceremony.  My curiosity about such architectural elements as the “nijiri-guchi” (wriggling-in entrance), the “tokonoma” (a display alcove), and the low doorways and rush ceilings inspired me to study the way of tea and incorporate it into my daily routine.

Sen Rikyu, the first tea master, brought harmony to a strife-torn era by transforming tea preparation into a ritual akin to Zen meditation. My tea room was an exact replica of one that he built for the imperial villa.  The lattice window on the east wall was placed after careful consideration of where the light would fall: on the alcove with its single scroll, the iron kettle, guest mat or rush ceiling. When it came to the rustic simplicity of the tea hut, Rikyu believed the smaller the size, the greater the spiritual connection between host and guest. I was delighted to learn the diminutive four-and-a-half mat room owes its origin to a passage in Buddhist scriptures in which a bodhisattva and 86 disciples are welcomed into a room of this size!

Since the owners of my tearoom had done the unheard of thing of renting it as living quarters, I felt free to be unconventional.  Besides, the “nijiriguchi” door (a mere 25 inches square) proved to be a major inconvenience for everyday use.  The tiny “wriggling-in” entrance symbolizes the guests’ passage from the outside world to the spiritual space of the tearoom.  Prior to a tea ceremony, it is left open slightly, with the host’s sandals propped against the wall.  When I was home alone, the open doorway served as a picture window or a window seat overlooking the moss garden.  It became a favorite spot to read the morning paper with a steaming bowl of “genmaicha” (“sencha” green tea blended with brown rice) in hand.  As winter turned to spring, I sipped plum blossom tea.   In the summer, I enjoyed “mugicha,” a barley beverage that is served ice-cold.  My traditional tea bowl accommodated just about every variety of tea, including the sublime Gyokuro, which is a sencha made from young leaves of tea plants grown in the shade.

The irregularly shaped tea bowl “Wabi” got its name from the phrase “wabi sabi,” which has myriad meanings in Japanese.  Wabi-sabi’s qualities are asymmetry, simplicity, austere beauty, naturalness, subtle profundity and unworldliness, according to Soshitsu Sen XV, the fifteenth generation Grand Master of the Urasenke School of Tea.  From the vantage point of my nijiri-guchi, I learned to appreciate the wabi-sabi qualities of budding trees or those that had spent their blossoms over a tree in full bloom. I came to value the imperfect beauty of my tea bowl.

The mottled bowl came from the same antique shop where I first glimpsed a kimono-clad gentleman whose understated elegance bespoke a tea master. A letter of introduction gained me entrée to gatherings at his home where I did my best to memorize the proper sequence of gestures for preparing tea.   What my body forgot, my spirit remembers.  Today, a bowl of tea in my New York apartment, half a world away from Kyoto, sets me thinking: I wonder who is living in my tearoom today and what are their favorite teas?

Tricia Vita is a journalist who writes frequently about architecture, travel, and popular culture. She is the translator of One Thousand and One-Second Stories by the Japanese Dadaist Inagaki Taruho.

 

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